Saturday, November 19, 2011

Calling 1990 . . . Are you there?

Some Vogue Designer pattern, sorry I can't remember #
I finally switched my closet from summer to winter last week. As usual this is a weeding out process and there are always a few garments I cling to. Honestly, I'd only been hanging on to this one because I thought it turned out really well, great welts and great sleeve caps. Those pretty much sum up a well-made jacket to me. I made this while I lived in Minneapolis and must have bought the fabric from my former employer, the long-gone Northwest Fabrics. I mention this only because I bought a lot! Enough to make two jackets (one using method I read about in Threads on converting a set-in sleeve to a sleeve with a gusset. Can't find the first issue that showed this but it is shown again in issue 94), a skirt, and a pair of pants. This is all that's left of that wardrobe and it was on it's way out the door until I tried it on. I was absolutely certain that it would never fit my now "mature" body...but it did! And then I started to think about how nice it would look with some of my gray pieces. And then I thought about how I have this gray and pink shirt that it matches...and this great necklace...

So, now what? Those shoulders are huge! My only choice is to alter them. Open the lining, take out the shoulder pad, lower the sleeve cap, reduce the shoulder slope, re-attach the sleeves, re-attach new shoulder pads, close up the lining. That is a lot of work and I hate alterations. I always tell people that I hate them so much that if I have a broken zipper, I'll make a new skirt/pants instead of replacing the zipper.

Well, at this point it has made the journey out of the close and up to the sewing table. And I do have a few extra days at home this week for Thanksgiving... we'll see what happens.

Just one more thing...

Another garment - yay! (See sidebar and click on the pic to read the review.) I really love the result and especially love the fabric. I orginally ordered it from Gorgeous Fabrics to go with a little SWAP experiment in ... 2008! Jeesh, am I ever behind. This pattern suits it so much better than my original idea. The "artsy" vibe is a little out of my comfort zone but...I guess it's good to step out of the zone sometimes!

Sunday, November 13, 2011

Still Here

And still sewing! I'd love to share all the little interruptions that have prevented me from posting for hmmmm...3 months(?), but really it's just life... busy, crazy life.

On to the sewing. Let's start with McCall's 6395. See that? It's a current pattern! I really thought I'd be the first to review this on PR, but looks like I'm just a few weeks late for that. The complete review is here; the personal comentary is Here!

In that never-ending quest to sew a perfect garment every time, I'd been reading the Real Fit for Real People book. I picked up on two items while reading, 1) press your patterns before you cut (of course, I knew I should do this all the time, but I hate it - it takes more time and you can't see the factory fold lines to fold it perfectly back in the envelope - which I actually love to do), and 2) maintain the design ease into your garment in addition to fitting alterations.

I will explain what I did with the understanding that I don't know why I did it on this particular garment. To me, the fit on the model shown on the pattern envelope isn't particularly flattering, especially the neckline. If that's due to the design ease, why the heck would I want to duplicate it? I don't know. But I did it anyway.

First, I compared the bust/waist/hip measurements on the envelope to those same measurements on the pattern and determined that this was the fitting and design ease. Next, I made the fitting alterations for my body in these areas. Lastly, I added the "ease" measurement after my alterations. The result was a big garment. The bust darts seemed huge! I went back and took in a total of 3" from the hip and waist, and about 2" from the bust area - all done in the side seam. I still hate the bust darts. They feel like two gigantic arrows. Oh well, I'll continue to wear it...this year ;)

That's all for now. I've got more garment pictures just waiting for the words to go with them!

Thanks for stopping by - can't believe I've actually got a few new followers (big smiley face that I'm too lazy to insert)!